The shortlist

Grand, chandelier-y, river views, and the kind of cake you plan the rest of the day around. Book the window.

Classic 19th-century café facing the National Theatre and the bridge. Very pretty, very good for a toast.

Small-plate Mexican with natural wine, easy for a group because everyone orders differently and nothing needs a knife.

Japanese-Korean small plates in a villa with a garden room. Loud, warm, and built for a big table.

The Czech pastry shop, on the same corner since 1911: cream rolls, the chocolate meringue everyone calls Indián, proper coffee from the morning. A few minutes off the top of Wenceslas Square, open until 19:00.

The bakery behind half the good food in this city: rye sourdough baked on beech wood, kolaches, buns, and a counter to buy from. A short tram ride, and worth it for the bread alone.

The pastry counter that starts neighbourhood arguments. Coffee, cinnamon buns, people-watching.

The buchty place: warm yeast buns filled with cream cheese, plum jam or poppy, made through the morning and usually gone by the afternoon. Go early, before the queue forms.

The local pub: fresh tanková beer, schnitzel, plastic seats, zero pretence. Excellent for a second night.

Craft beer, burgers and a garden if the weather plays along. A good hangover headquarters.

Art Deco cellar bar since 1911, cocktails taken seriously. Small, so book or arrive early.

Big dark room, enormous drink list, very good for a group that wants to keep ordering.

Cuban-themed bar with a rooftop and music that gets louder all night. The classic bachelorette stop.

Five floors, five genres, one very confused group at closing time. Optional. Very fun.